Saturday, March 30, 2013

Soils Aint Soils


Growing plants can be quite technical if we wish to make it so. There is chemistry, physics and biology to consider if you want to create the absolute best growing environment for your plants. Luckily for us, it isn't super necessary to consider all of these technical details in order to grow the majority of plants successfully.

Having said this, sometimes a small amount of knowledge can go a very long way. Perhaps nowhere is an  understanding of some basic principals likely to pay off as much as in container growing culture.

But first, a story. This has been circulating the internet for years, and I promise there is a point, although I may take a little while to get there!


A professor stood before his philosophy class and had some items in front of him. When the class began, he wordlessly picked up a very large and empty mayonnaise jar and proceeded to fill it with golf balls. He then asked the students if the jar was full. 

They agreed that it was.

The professor then picked up a box of pebbles and poured them into the jar. He shook the jar lightly. The pebbles rolled into the open areas between the golf balls. He then asked the students again if the jar was full. 

They agreed it was.The professor next picked up a box of sand and poured it into the jar. Of course, the sand filled up everything else. He asked once more if the jar was full. 

The students responded with a unanimous ‘yes.’

The professor then produced two Beers from under the table and poured the entire contents into the jar effectively filling the empty space between the sand.The students laughed..

‘Now,’ said the professor as the laughter subsided, ‘I want you to recognize that this jar represents your life. The golf balls are the important things—your family, your children, your health, your friends and your favourite passions—and if everything else was lost and only they remained, your life would still be full. 

The pebbles are the other things that matter like your job, your house and your car.. The sand is everything else—the small stuff.

‘If you put the sand into the jar first,’ he continued, ‘there is no room for the pebbles or the golf balls. 

The same goes for life.

If you spend all your time and energy on the small stuff you will never have room for the things that are important to you.

Pay attention to the things that are critical to your happiness.

Spend time with your children. Spend time with your parents. Visit with grandparents. Take your spouse out to dinner.There will always be time to clean the house and mow the lawn.

Take care of the golf balls first—the things that really matter. Set your priorities. The rest is just sand.

One of the students raised her hand and inquired what the Beer represented. The professor smiled and said, ‘I’m glad you asked.’ The Beer just shows you that no matter how full your life may seem, there’s always room for a couple of Beers with a friend."

As great as this story is for representing life, for me at least, it also represents some interesting considerations when choosing your soils for containerised plants. We will come back to this later.

The Role of Soil Media in Container Gardening


Back when I was young and first started growing plants in my backyard, I noticed that all the plants I planted in the ground seemed to do ok, whereas everything I planted into containers tended to be riding a downwards slope to death, rarely living for more than a few months. The problem was, I was using soil straight from the ground in my pots. But why is this so bad?

The answer comes by asking the question, what exactly is the role that soil plays in plant growth?

To the uninitiated the answer may surprise. The media in which a plant grows need only serve three functions;
1. As an anchor to support the plant
2. As a media to access water and nutrients
3. As a media to access air

To this end, the actual form that soil media takes is not so important as fulfilling these three needs. Nowhere is this point more evident than in hydroponics where plants can be grown entirely submerged in water, as in a deep-water culture system, or in aeroponics where a plant is grown with its roots suspended in air, being misted or sprayed, at intervals, with a nutrient solution. In both of these cases the plant itself is supported by the hydroponic systems or inert media such as clay pellets. Air is bubbled through a nutrient solution in a deep-water culture system, and in aeroponics air is available at most times.

It is important to caveat these next points with the following; when growing in the ground, different rules apply to growing in containers. Although the three basic needs still apply, in the ground there are entire ecosystems of bacteria, fungi and other organisms that work in symbiotic and complimentary fashion with the soil. For instance, earthworms and other organisms make tunnels, introducing air into the system, whilst other organisms work to make particular nutrients available, or destroy toxins.

Another key point for consideration is drainage, however this will be covered in depth later.

Of the three needs that plants have of soil media the first is very easy to accomplish. Plants can be anchored in almost anything. You can dig up soil from the garden, or plant them in gravel or potting mix or even shards of glass. The second need is slightly more difficult.

On Nutrient Uptake - Warning Chemistry Ahead!


Plants require a host of nutrients in the form of minerals and elements to survive, and these nutrients are only available to the plant when in an aqueous (dissolved in water) solution. Essential nutrients are not available in their elemental form, and instead are provided as ions which are positive or negatively charged portions of a compound. For instance, the chemical  formula for table salt is NaCl, comprised of sodium (Na) and Chlorine (Cl). When salt is dissolved in water it separates into its positive sodium ions (Na+) and negatively charged chlorine ions (Cl-).

For almost all plant nutrient needs, elements can be provided by various different compounds. For instance, in my post on blueberries I discussed how nitrogen could be provided in either a nitrate (NO3) form, or an ammonia form (NH4). For nitrates, when dissolved in water for instance calcium nitrate Ca(NO3)2 separates into Ca+ and NO3- ions, and potassium nitrate (KNO3) separates into its potassium (K+) and nitrate (NO3-) ions. Nitrogen in its ammonia form, can be provided similarly by compounds such as ammonium nitrate which provides nitrogen in both ammonium (NH4) and nitrate (NO3) forms.

Ions in solution are transported from the roots into the plants through a process called osmosis, where due to a chemical pressure, which causes ions to move from the soil into the plants roots, and then up into its tissues.

Osmosis provides an upwards pressure on nutrients and water into the plant, but at the same time there exists negative downward pressure in the soil keeping water and its dissolved nutrients from moving into the plant. These negative pressures include gravity and the level of undissolved compounds in the soil.

Because of this, if too many soluble undissolved (or dissolved but less so) compounds exist in the soil media, the plant can literally have nutrients and water drawn out of its cells, and at the very least have any water and nutrient made totally unavailable, rendering the media useless. In these cases plants die of thirst and starvation, despite totally being surrounded by food.

Another interesting phenomena exists where the presence of one ionic compound can cause another to be locked out, and less available to the plant.

Finally, pH is an important soil attribute that effects the availability of nutrients, with some ions being more available in a acidic soil, and others being more available in a basic soil.

pH - More Science!

pH is a measurement of the acidity or alkalinity of a soil. In the simplest of terms pH is the amount of willingness a soil has to donate or receive hydrogen ions (H+). A solution or soil that is a donator of H+ is acidic and those that receive are alkaline, or basic. The more H+ ions that are donated and received indicate the strength of the acid or base.

pH is measured on a scale from 1-14, where 1 is extremely acidic and 14 is extremely basic. On this scale 7 the pH of pure water, is neutral. pH is measured on a logarithmic scale where each change of 1 on the pH scale is 10 times more or less able to donate hydrogen ions than the previous score. For instance, a pH of 6, one less than pH neutral 7 is 10x more acidic, and a pH of 5 is 10x more acidic than pH 6, and 100x more acidic than pH 7. 

At different pH levels, elements are available to plants in different amounts, which can be seen by this picture; 





Soil requirement 3 - Soil Particles, Water and Air


Now, back to our professors story! I promised I'd get here!

Apart from being an interesting metaphor for life the professor's example provides an insight into soil structure! Just as in his jar, filled with particles of different sizes, we can create soils of different particle sizes to help or hinder us in our containerised gardens. This goes directly to our third soil need, the need for air.

If we fill our containers with large particles, such as the professor's golf balls we create a growing media with tonnes of room for air. Every time we put a smaller particle in, we remove some of the space that air can occupy, and fill it with some other sort of media, which can either be beneficial, neutral or harmful.

Too much large pockets of air however can also create a problem. If we planted our plants into golf balls, we would have a large supply of air for our plant's roots, as well as good anchorage, however golf balls do not have a particularly strong ability to hold water and nutrients. As golf balls are non-absorbent there is nowhere for water to be held, except in the places between where the golf balls touch each other, as a thin film that exists between particles.  

Obviously, planting in golf balls is probably not something any of us would consider, but more realistic growing media, such as expanded clay pellets or gravel have similar properties, and will provide a very well aerated, but not particularly moisture retentive, environment for growth.

As a general rule, as particle size decreases, water retention increases, and air capacity decreases. So our goal then it to find a soil media that is both water retentive and also hold air.

To achieve this, we can either have particles that hold moisture within their core, and allow air between the particles; or we can have a mixture of large particles that hold water where they touch or within themselves, and allow for pockets of air to exist simultaneously.

In cases where too much water is present in the soil the plant roots literally suffocate and the plant drowns.

Perched Water Tables 


A problem we face, pretty much unique to container growing is that the more fine particles in a soil mixture, the more a water table begins to form in the base of the container. This water table, known as perched water, is an area of saturated soil mixture where plant roots cannot survive, because of  lack of air.

It is because of this that my plants that I planted in containers using garden soil as a youth failed so dramatically. The soil of the area where I grew up was heavy clay. Heavy clay is comprised of very, very small particles, and despite typically having high nutrient levels, in a container the perched water table is so high that there is little room for roots to grow, and little available air throughout the rest of the soil either, as very little space exists between particles even when not saturated with water.

So What is a Good Soil Mix Then?    

Over the last year I have taken an interest in the best types of soil to promote vigorous plant growth. In my search I was eventually ended up at the GardenWeb forums, where I came across the posts of a forum member called Tapla, or Al. He speaks in depth about much that I have talked of in this post, as well as a lot more, and he suggests using a soil mixture made up of three components; fine pine bark, perlite and peat moss.

The mixture called Tapla's 5-1-1 mix is seven parts in total; 5 parts pine bark, 1 part perlite and 1 part peat moss. For the majority of plants it is wise to add some dolomitic lime to the mix to increase the pH, and to introduce some magnesium into the soil. For plants that love acidic soils, such as blueberries, it is best to leave the lime out.

This mixture should be wet as you mix it, as the peat moss and pine bark can be quite hydrophobic before it is moistened.

Today I made up a big batch of 5-1-1 to pot two new blueberry plants that I purchased today, and to plant out some new Chilean Guava, I have arriving next week.






Monday, March 25, 2013

Growing Blueberries!



Along with figs, this year I am trying my hand at blueberries. I currently have seven varieties, six in containers.

Blueberries 

Blueberries can be a little trickier than some fruits to grow. They have specific soil and nutrition needs and for decent crops need to be cross pollinated. Blueberries are often advertised as self-fertile, however cross pollination with another blueberry of the same type will greatly increase both yield and berry size. Blueberries also require a number of chill hours in order to set fruit.

However it is important that you choose blueberry plants from the same type, as not all blueberry plants will cross-pollinate with each other.

Soil selection

Blueberries are quite particular in their soil needs. They enjoy an acidic soil with a pH between 4.5-6.

Blueberries over time have adapted to lower pH environments, which today means that they will suffer mineral deficiencies in higher pH soils. In particular blueberries will suffer from an iron deficiency as their ability to absorb iron decreases with higher pH. Iron deficiency in blueberries is marked by chloriotic (yellowing), leaves.

Blueberries also require a free draining soil, free from weed competition. Blueberry root systems are very shallow.

Nutritional Needs

Blueberries have a different root system to the majority of plants. Normally, plants will form roots, and then fine feeder hairs, to collect nutrients. Blueberries lack these fine hair-like roots, and instead, form a symbiotic relationship with mycorrhizal fungi.

Blueberries are somewhat different from other plants in their nitrogen needs. Nitrogen (N) is an essential element that promotes leafy growth in plants, and in most fertilisers exists in a nitrate form. In chemistry nitrates have a chemical composition of NO3. Blueberries, and some other acid loving plants, prefer to receive nitrogen in an ammonia form, which has a chemical composition of NH4. Because of this, it is important when choosing a fertiliser for blueberries that you select one with an ammonia based nitrogen source. Generally, this can be found in acid-loving fertiliser mixes.

Below is a picture on the difference in blueberry root development when fed with a nitrate (NO3) vs ammonia (NH4) based fertiliser. The source of this picture, and lots of additional fertilising information can be found in this paper.




Blueberry Types

Blueberries come in three common types, blueberries will cross-pollinate with other plants within the same type, although some studies have shown limited cross pollination with blueberries of another type, in particular Southern Highbush and Rabbiteye types. To be safe, plant at least two varieties of the same type together.

Highbush

Highbush blueberries are so named because of their taller stature, sometimes growing up to 3m tall. Highbush types have a high chilling hour requirement, needing at least 1000 hours under 2oC to satisfy their dormancy requirements. These plants are quite hardy and frost tolerant. Highbush types are also able to tolerate high summer temperatures, making them great for cooler Australian climates.

This year, I have planted two varieties of Highbush blueberries

Blue Rose




Denise




Edit, on 30 March I added two new Highbush blueberries to the collection; Brigitta an Blue Crop



Southern Highbush

Southern Highbush types have lower chill hour requirements than Highbush types, needing between 250-600 hours of chill. Southern Highbush types do not have the frost tolerance of Highbush types and must be protected in areas like Canberra. Southern Highbush types have a tolerance for heat.

In Australia Southern Highbush varieties account for up to 80% of total blueberry production, due to the extended growing season.

Growing Southern Highbush types in Canberra can be troublesome due to our cold winters. Blueberries are perennials, meaning they live for many years, and in cold areas will die back each spring as cold weather approaches, to re-grow in Spring. Blueberries in containers should be moved to a warmer location to over-winter, and Southern Blueberries in the ground need extra frost protection if they are to survive.

This year, I have three Southern Highbush varieties

Legacy



Sunshine Blue




Misty




Rabbiteye

Rabbiteye blueberries are so-called due to their appearance when ripening looking (unsurprisingly) like the eye of a rabbit when the berries are in their pink stage. Rabbiteye varieties often have larger fruits, with thinner skins. Rabbiteye varieties can grow as large as, or even larger than Highbush types. Rabbiteye varieties have the ability to far out-live other types, growing for as long as 20 years or more.

Rabbiteye blueberries are low-chill varieties and need between 450-600 chill hours. Rabbiteye blueberries flower before Highbush types, and the flowers are very susceptible to spring frosts, and containerised plants should be moved to warmer locations if frost is predicted in spring. In Canberra, as the saying goes, you aren't (relatively) safe from frosts until Melbourne cup day, although late frosts into November or even December can occur.

This year, I have two Rabbiteye varieties;

Powderblue





Brightwell




Thursday, March 21, 2013

The Fig Collection



I have always been a great fan of figs. Recently when overseas in France I would visit the market twice a week and proceed to eat two whole punnets of figs, in a single day.

It was great.

Once picked, figs do not ripen any more, and spoil very quickly. Figs when fully ripe are very soft and difficult to transport in-tact and this means that, sadly, figs are often picked a little too early for market, before they reach the maximum sweetness, and depth of flavour you can get leaving it on the tree until fully ripe.

I find fig trees themselves quite an attractive plant, with large lobed leaves, often with varied shapes. When disturbed or crushed, fig leaves also give off a beautiful aroma, sweet and figgy.

I grow the majority of my figs in a soil-less mix, and as of yet they are all quite young and unimpressive, but as they grow quite quickly they should begin to look more respectable as Spring rolls round again.


Brown Turkey

The Brown Turkey is common variety fig, not only in Australia but throughout the world. In most nurseries you come across in Australia this will be the variety stocked. Brown Turkey figs are hardy trees and form small to medium size figs that are rich and sweet. Brown Turkey figs produce a breba crop on last seasons wood in summer, and a main crop in Autumn on new growth.

My Brown Turkey has had very slow growth since re-potting in January. In the last two weeks it has begun to wake up a little, and I think I may have been under-watering.









White Adriatic

White Adriatic is a fig originally coming from the Mediterranean. White Adriatic figs form one or two crops and have pale green-yellow skin turning pale to almost white as they mature.

White Adriatic figs are meant to be particularly sweet and rich, good for jams and drying.

Like the Brown Turkey, my White Adriatic has had fairly slow growth, probably due to under-watering. In the last two weeks with extra water it has began to put out its first growth since I purchased it in January.





Black Genoa

The Black Genoa is a variety that is uncommon outside of Australia. It is a quick growing tree with medium sized sweet fruit. It is the second most common variety you will see in the average Australian nursery. It is often used as a commercial fruit here as it is prolific and easy growing with relatively hardy fruit.

My Black Genoa is the fastest growing of my container figs, putting out some sucker growth and several leaves. 




Yellow Excell

The Yellow Excell is the newest of my plants, and I stumbled upon it at Bunnings one afternoon. I have not previously seen this variety in nurseries. Excell figs ripen to a yellow colour, and are reportedly extremely sweet, rich and excellent for drying and making jams. I am looking forward to tasting this fig, probably next year.

This plant was hidden right up the back of the fruit trees at Bunnings, and was in fairly bad shape when I picked it up. Since purchasing from Bunnings two weeks ago, it has dropped a few leaves since being re-potted, and in the last week some of the buds have begun to swell, so I am hoping it will put out a little bit of growth before winter dormancy.






Mystery Figs

In previous posts you have met my latest fig cuttings, taken from a tree between Canberra and Orange, and today they sit, still looking fairly lifeless, with only a hint of a green flush in the buds waiting to put forward some leaves.

Back in December I took another random cutting from a large tree overhanging a fence in my suburb. It kind of sat there looking quite sad and unhappy with life all through January, and then in February it began to put out some leaves. Today I have great expectations for this plant, especially after re-visiting the donor fig and finding it covered in small dark figs, with a deep red interior.


Picture on the left taken at the end of Feb




Picture on the right taken mid-March

Sunday, March 17, 2013

New Garlic Bed



Today I planted out my garlic. I bought three varieties, which had all been certified organic; Red Rocambole, Monaro Purple and Italian White.

Be Careful Which Garlic You Plant!

With garlic, it is important to only plant organic, or Australian Garlic that has not been subjected to fumigation or chemical treatment.

In order to destroy any pests that may be imported all garlic is treated with some fairly harsh chemicals, in particular methyl bromide, which is highly toxic. Garlic is also often bleached to achieve a really white skin. Finally store bought garlic is often treated with a growth inhibitor to stop the garlic sprouting whilst still in the store, to prolong shelf life. This means that it often wont sprout at all, and will have stunted growth.

Garlic Types

Garlic comes in several different types, but there are two prominent types; softnecks and hardnecks. Softneck garlic varieties are a little harder to grow, and can be braided together once harvested. Softneck varieties are reported to store better than hardneck types.

Hardneck garlic is different to softnecks in that they grow a scrape, which is the garlic flower. Garlic scrapes form as a curled long stem, and can be eaten, providing a milder garlic taste than the cloves themselves. Some people say that removing the scrapes as they form will result in larger bulbs, as the garlic devotes it's energy into bulb formation. Others however say that bulbs will be larger if the scrape remains intact. Hardneck varieties enjoy a cooler climate than softnecks.

Of the garlic I have chosen to grow, the Red Rocambole and Monaro Purple are both hardneck varieties, and the Italian White is a softneck type. On planting the bulbs, I noticed that the hardneck varieties had larger but fewer bulbs, whilst the softneck had small but plentiful bulbs.

Planting Garlic

There are two schools of thought on when to plant garlic. Some say to plant close to the Autumn equinox, which falls on March 20, whilst others say to plant closer to the Winter Solstice. Reading other blogs in Australia, in-particular here I have decided to plant earlier, as I predict an unusually cold winter this year.

When planting garlic, separate the bulb into its individual cloves and plant pointy-side up. When planting it is not necessary to remove all the paper-like wrapping around the cloves, but it is important to ensure that some of the base root-plate remains. Don't separate the individual cloves from the bulbs until right before planting, as they store better intact.

Garlic should be planted about 10-20cms apart, and about 3-4cm deep.  I have planted mine a little closer, about 10cm apart, as I ran out of room in my bed! This is likely to result in smaller cloves when I harvest.

Garlic requires at least two months of cool temperature to induce bulb formation.

Harvesting Garlic

Garlic takes many months to form. Initially the bulbs will send up a stalk and develop a root system before cold winter weather sets in. After this, the bulb chills for a minimum of two months and the bulb itself develops after soil begins to heat up after winter.

With the onset of spring the bulbs will send up leaves and hardneck varieties will send up a scrape. Garlic is harvested when the leaves start to die-back with the onset of hotter weather.

This is my first year growing garlic, and I will add updates as I go.




Saturday, March 16, 2013

Beetroot


This is the first year I have tried growing beetroot, and it is quite an easy vegetable to grow. I planted from seed, and have found that almost all the seeds will germinate.

In Canberra, beetroot can be planted at all but the coldest months of the year directly into the garden. I planted mine into punnets and transplanted out, as the dogs were trampling the young seedlings.

After starting off quite slow, the beetroot seemed to take off, and I can see the bulbs fattening by the day. Tonight I picked my first four bulbs, and will transplant more seeds into their place.




Friday, March 15, 2013

Holy Cucumbers Batman!


Well Friday is traditionally the day I scout around seeing what is ripe in the garden for picking. Today I had a few of veggies available.

My zucchini has finally started to slow down after 2 months of huge, and I mean HUGE, fruit. Honestly zucchini is one vegetable I am adapting my approach to next year. The plant itself grows large, and the huge leaves smother anything planted close. The fruit themselves grow exceptionally fast, and produce huge (but tasty) up to 1kg each. Next year I will give the plant plenty of space, and 1 bush is definitely enough. 

Tomatoes this year have not been spectacular. I planted them late, towards the end of December, and it has only been in the last 2 weeks that fruit have begun to ripen. Long dry spells punctuated by heavy rain caused many of the fruit to crack, however they are still sweet and full of flavour. I tried a new growing technique this year, growing tomatoes up strings and removing all the excess suckers. I found these bushes much easier to manage and hope to test the system out again next year. Hopefully with more favourable weather.

The Lebanese eggplant in this picture are the first I have harvested. The plants themselves are strong growing, and I wish I had planted them sooner, as I think they would have cropped well. I have another 2-3 almost ripe fruits on the plants which will come off in the next few days, ready for some eggplant inspired dish.

The Cayenne chillies in this picture have become a normal occurance, ripening 6-7 chillies every few days. There are still absolutely tonnes of green chillies on the plant, and this weekend I am going to try and convert it to a hydroponic system so I can keep it producing throughout the winter. In Canberra there is a slight frost risk coming up on Monday, and this is going to get progressively worse.  



But the cropping plant of the year award goes to...

Cucumber

Before this year I had never grown cucumber. It's not something we eat particularly much of, and years ago we received a free packet of seeds, which I decided to plant. Out of the six seeds I planted, all of them germinated. Of them, five remain today, one suffering a freak and horrific dog-trampling accident.

Cucumbers were planted from their seedling trays in January, and for the last four weeks I have been taking HUGE amounts of cucumbers each week. Every Friday I go out and see what has ripened, and this week I had a record 27 ripe cucumbers.

Of everything in the garden this year, giving away cucumbers has been the hardest!

For future reference, if this year is anything to go by, 1 cucumber plant is ample. AMPLE! The picture below is just todays harvest, and I have had similar over the last 3-4 weeks!





Thursday, March 14, 2013

Peas and Caterpillars!



Peas!

On the first weekend of March I planted some peas as an Autumn crop. I originally bought 3 heirloom varieties, Greenfeast, Telephone and SugarAnn. I was very worried after I planted them as the day afterwards began an extended heatwave with temperatures at about 30oC every day.

Peas enjoy a cooler temperature for germination, around 23-26oC and so I tucked them up under a bush by the wall of the house that only gets morning sun, and crossed my fingers.

Happily, on Tuesday morning I could see the first of the peas had come through, and today with the approach of cooler weather I have moved them out into their growing location. I planted two of my three varieties, SugarAnn and Telephone. Of these the telephone are climbers, while the SugarAnn is a bush type.

I planted these seeds in a soil-less mix, and have had exceptionally good germination rates, despite the hot days we have been having.


 


Caterpillars!

Over the past few week I have been observing some caterpillars that have taken up residence on my young orange tree. Normally caterpillars receive an immediate eviction notice, and are out of my garden, however these caterpillars are the larvae of the Citrus Swallowtail Butterfly,and so I allowed two to remain, to munch away in peace.

This butterfly is much larger than the usual butterflies seen fluttering around the garden, and are quite magnificent to watch. Although I couldn't snap a good picture of these butterflies myself, Google has helped me out (source Wikipedia);


Apart from their beauty, there are some very unique things about these caterpillars, that convinced me to allow a select two to remain on my orange, despite all the leaves the consume!

Firstly, these caterpillars begin life looking quite, well, poopy. That is to say they look like little bird droppings on leaves. This is a method of camouflage, and quite interesting, as they bare quite the resemblance!

After the caterpillars age, they take on a new colour and look, and become slightly more reminiscent of the butterflies they will someday be! Below are a few pictures of these caterpillars at different life stages.

                   



                     

Since these photos, I have lost the large green caterpillar, possibly to birds or wasps, but the second is growing and will soon take his place, and hopefully begin to prepare for the pupae stage of his lifestyle.

Although these caterpillars lose their bird-poo camouflage as they mature this doesn't mean they are totally defenceless. In these final pictures of my last caterpillar you can see where I have aggravated him a little, and from his head emerge two red antenna-like structures. These red organs produce an offputting, bitter smell to deter predators, and serve as the last line of defence before being eaten.

If this little guy survives I will provide updates on his progress to butterfly-hood. For reference purposes, I think I shall name him Sammy. Sammy the caterpillar.

Peaceful-Sammy


Angry-Sammy




Monday, March 11, 2013

Fig Cutting Update


A few days ago, in my first post, I talked about how I propagated some green fig cuttings using the shoebox method.

The cuttings were removed from the shoebox with varying degrees of roots. Here is what they looked like on removal, six days ago.


I planted these cuttings into four containers, three into clear plastic party cups, and the one with the most roots into a 1.9L pot as the roots were too high up the stem to fit into the cups. Although we can't see into the pot, we can observe the progress of the roots in the cups very easily, and here is what six days growth looks like;


As of yet, there is no top growth, but I believe I shall see some leaves appear in the next week.

The mixture these cuttings are now growing in is approximately; One half part of the original propagating mix from the shoebox, and one half equal mix of pine bark fines and coarse perlite. I also added a small amount of sphagnum peat moss.

I intend to put all of these cuttings into proper pots tonight or tomorrow.

Sunday, March 10, 2013

The Canberra Climate


I was thinking tonight that I have jumped straight into this blog without any information about Canberra, where I live, or anything really about me at all.

I have been in the ACT for about 6 years now, and moved over here from Western Australia. To the uninitiated, Canberra can be quite the shock at first, especially when that first winter rolls around.

Canberra winters have a somewhat unnatural coldness to them. Geographically we are in Australian zones 1 or 2, which is approximately equivalent to zone 8-9 in the United States. Although most winter mornings will be frosty, and average between -2 to -5o Celsius, for some reason it always feels much colder than that. Or maybe it is just me! Every year Canberra routinely hits -6 or -7 at least once, and can drop as low as -9 or -10oC. During winter we have a maximum average temperature of about 12-15oC. Snow in Canberra is rare, but possible.

In direct contrast to this, summers in Canberra can be hot. Really hot. This year has been a demonstration of this, where we exceeded 40oC on at least 5 occasions, and had many days above 35oC. Historically the summer average maximums are about 30oC, so clearly 2013 is an extreme.

Canberra is one of the few places in Australia to have 4 actual seasons, and it often seems that the weather will change on the exact day as foretold by the calendar. It is on these occasions that you hear everyone throughout the city commenting on just how much it is like someone threw a switch. This Autumn, which began on March 1st was no exception, with the temperature plummeting exactly to the day. After March 1 however, this Autumn has been anything but typical with almost every day forecast between 28-31oC, and even today this trend is set to continue for at least the next 7 days. The papers are calling it a potentially record breaking heatwave, after a record breaking summer in Australia.

This year, for no other reason than 'I think so', my money is on this winter being equally as extreme, and we don't have much longer to wait to find out- one of the very first Canberran sayings I heard when I got to this fair city was that ANZAC day, April 25th is the herald for cold weather.

46 days and counting.

To prepare for winter I am currently making the most of this lingering heat, and have planted a few punnets of broccoli and brussel sprouts, to be planted out in April. I planted some peas into pots last weekend which have just today germinated, and have onions growing indoors, to be planted out in April. Next weekend, almost the Autumn equinox, I will be planting out garlic and saffron. More about these to follow in another post!


   

Saturday, March 9, 2013

Super Silverbeet


I remember years ago as a child, my dad used to grow silverbeet. Often we would go crabbing, and all the leftover shells would go around the base of the silverbeet plants. Every now and again we would get silverbeet with dinner, boiled in salted water, and as unappealing as that sounds I used to enjoy it immensely.

It seems a little strange to me now, considering it took me about 20 years to try and grow it myself!

Silverbeet is a great vegetable for Canberra. It tolerates both cold and hot, and can be planted in most months, as long as it has enough warmth to germinate before winter. Silverbeet can be planted into the ground as early as August, and transplanted in the ground from July. You should avoid planting in March through until June.

I started my garden late this year and put seeds into punnets in December and transplanted into the ground in January.

When transplanting I made a nice thick hill of soil on the ground, and planted 6 plants which I germinated in a punnet. I mulched around the plants and kept watered. Once a week I fertilised with a mixture of seaweed solution and Charlie Carp.

Back at the beginning of February the plants looked like this;




Here is what the plants look like today;


I have harvested leaves on three occasions before this picture, including last weekend, and I am super happy with the way these plants grow, and how much they produce!

The plants produce so many leaves that I was kind of confused with what to do with them all, and have been thinking that 6 plants are way too much!

Today I harvested about 1kg of leaves and cooked them up using a recipe I found recently. I am a big fan of Indian curries, and this dish works well as a side, or even a stand alone vegetarian meal. I have included the recipe below.

This is what I harvested, and how the plants looked afterwards. Silverbeet is great in that as long as 2-3 leaves are left on the plants you can continually harvest week after week.



Potato and Silverbeet curry:

Ingredients:
1kg Silverbeet leaves (leaves about 500g cooked and de-stemmed)
1kg new potatoes- quartered
2 onions- halved and sliced
2tsp black mustard seeds
4-5 curry leaves (optional)
2tsp minced garlic
1.5tsp minced ginger
2tsp salt
1tsp coriander powder
1tsp cumin powder
.5tsp fennel powder
3 cups water
Chilli powder to taste
2-3tbs fresh coriander

1. Take your silverbeet and removed the central stem. Wash and cut each leaf into strips. (Note; you can use the stem if you wish, boil it for 3minutes before step 2, I added mine to the compost)




2. Add the leaves to a pot of boiling, salted water. Boil for 4-5 minutes and drain through a strainer and rinse with cool water. Set aside.




3. Whilst the leaves are cooling prepare the other ingredients; halve and slice the onion, quarter the new potatoes and prepare the spice mixes one bowl with the mustard seeds, and one bowl with the salt, cumin powder, coriander power, fennel powder and chilli powder. (The curry and coriander leaves in this picture are home grown!)


4. If the silverbeet is cool, squeeze the excess water out, and set aside.

5. Heat some oil in a pot and add the mustard seeds. Fry for 2-4 minutes until they begin to pop and splutter.


6. Add the onion, garlic, ginger and curry leaves and sauté until the onion is soft and has browned slightly, about 3-5minutes.


7. Add the potato, coriander, cumin and fennel spice mix and mix well. Add 3 cups, or enough water so that the potatoes are covered.


8. Simmer until most of the liquid is gone and potatoes are soft. If liquid is getting low, and potatoes are not soft, add some more water.




9. Once liquid is reduced, turn heat down and add silverbeet, mixing well. Cook for 5 minutes and turn heat off. Stir in the fresh coriander and remove from the heat.




10. Serve!


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