Showing posts with label nutrition. Show all posts
Showing posts with label nutrition. Show all posts

Saturday, March 30, 2013

Soils Aint Soils


Growing plants can be quite technical if we wish to make it so. There is chemistry, physics and biology to consider if you want to create the absolute best growing environment for your plants. Luckily for us, it isn't super necessary to consider all of these technical details in order to grow the majority of plants successfully.

Having said this, sometimes a small amount of knowledge can go a very long way. Perhaps nowhere is an  understanding of some basic principals likely to pay off as much as in container growing culture.

But first, a story. This has been circulating the internet for years, and I promise there is a point, although I may take a little while to get there!


A professor stood before his philosophy class and had some items in front of him. When the class began, he wordlessly picked up a very large and empty mayonnaise jar and proceeded to fill it with golf balls. He then asked the students if the jar was full. 

They agreed that it was.

The professor then picked up a box of pebbles and poured them into the jar. He shook the jar lightly. The pebbles rolled into the open areas between the golf balls. He then asked the students again if the jar was full. 

They agreed it was.The professor next picked up a box of sand and poured it into the jar. Of course, the sand filled up everything else. He asked once more if the jar was full. 

The students responded with a unanimous ‘yes.’

The professor then produced two Beers from under the table and poured the entire contents into the jar effectively filling the empty space between the sand.The students laughed..

‘Now,’ said the professor as the laughter subsided, ‘I want you to recognize that this jar represents your life. The golf balls are the important things—your family, your children, your health, your friends and your favourite passions—and if everything else was lost and only they remained, your life would still be full. 

The pebbles are the other things that matter like your job, your house and your car.. The sand is everything else—the small stuff.

‘If you put the sand into the jar first,’ he continued, ‘there is no room for the pebbles or the golf balls. 

The same goes for life.

If you spend all your time and energy on the small stuff you will never have room for the things that are important to you.

Pay attention to the things that are critical to your happiness.

Spend time with your children. Spend time with your parents. Visit with grandparents. Take your spouse out to dinner.There will always be time to clean the house and mow the lawn.

Take care of the golf balls first—the things that really matter. Set your priorities. The rest is just sand.

One of the students raised her hand and inquired what the Beer represented. The professor smiled and said, ‘I’m glad you asked.’ The Beer just shows you that no matter how full your life may seem, there’s always room for a couple of Beers with a friend."

As great as this story is for representing life, for me at least, it also represents some interesting considerations when choosing your soils for containerised plants. We will come back to this later.

The Role of Soil Media in Container Gardening


Back when I was young and first started growing plants in my backyard, I noticed that all the plants I planted in the ground seemed to do ok, whereas everything I planted into containers tended to be riding a downwards slope to death, rarely living for more than a few months. The problem was, I was using soil straight from the ground in my pots. But why is this so bad?

The answer comes by asking the question, what exactly is the role that soil plays in plant growth?

To the uninitiated the answer may surprise. The media in which a plant grows need only serve three functions;
1. As an anchor to support the plant
2. As a media to access water and nutrients
3. As a media to access air

To this end, the actual form that soil media takes is not so important as fulfilling these three needs. Nowhere is this point more evident than in hydroponics where plants can be grown entirely submerged in water, as in a deep-water culture system, or in aeroponics where a plant is grown with its roots suspended in air, being misted or sprayed, at intervals, with a nutrient solution. In both of these cases the plant itself is supported by the hydroponic systems or inert media such as clay pellets. Air is bubbled through a nutrient solution in a deep-water culture system, and in aeroponics air is available at most times.

It is important to caveat these next points with the following; when growing in the ground, different rules apply to growing in containers. Although the three basic needs still apply, in the ground there are entire ecosystems of bacteria, fungi and other organisms that work in symbiotic and complimentary fashion with the soil. For instance, earthworms and other organisms make tunnels, introducing air into the system, whilst other organisms work to make particular nutrients available, or destroy toxins.

Another key point for consideration is drainage, however this will be covered in depth later.

Of the three needs that plants have of soil media the first is very easy to accomplish. Plants can be anchored in almost anything. You can dig up soil from the garden, or plant them in gravel or potting mix or even shards of glass. The second need is slightly more difficult.

On Nutrient Uptake - Warning Chemistry Ahead!


Plants require a host of nutrients in the form of minerals and elements to survive, and these nutrients are only available to the plant when in an aqueous (dissolved in water) solution. Essential nutrients are not available in their elemental form, and instead are provided as ions which are positive or negatively charged portions of a compound. For instance, the chemical  formula for table salt is NaCl, comprised of sodium (Na) and Chlorine (Cl). When salt is dissolved in water it separates into its positive sodium ions (Na+) and negatively charged chlorine ions (Cl-).

For almost all plant nutrient needs, elements can be provided by various different compounds. For instance, in my post on blueberries I discussed how nitrogen could be provided in either a nitrate (NO3) form, or an ammonia form (NH4). For nitrates, when dissolved in water for instance calcium nitrate Ca(NO3)2 separates into Ca+ and NO3- ions, and potassium nitrate (KNO3) separates into its potassium (K+) and nitrate (NO3-) ions. Nitrogen in its ammonia form, can be provided similarly by compounds such as ammonium nitrate which provides nitrogen in both ammonium (NH4) and nitrate (NO3) forms.

Ions in solution are transported from the roots into the plants through a process called osmosis, where due to a chemical pressure, which causes ions to move from the soil into the plants roots, and then up into its tissues.

Osmosis provides an upwards pressure on nutrients and water into the plant, but at the same time there exists negative downward pressure in the soil keeping water and its dissolved nutrients from moving into the plant. These negative pressures include gravity and the level of undissolved compounds in the soil.

Because of this, if too many soluble undissolved (or dissolved but less so) compounds exist in the soil media, the plant can literally have nutrients and water drawn out of its cells, and at the very least have any water and nutrient made totally unavailable, rendering the media useless. In these cases plants die of thirst and starvation, despite totally being surrounded by food.

Another interesting phenomena exists where the presence of one ionic compound can cause another to be locked out, and less available to the plant.

Finally, pH is an important soil attribute that effects the availability of nutrients, with some ions being more available in a acidic soil, and others being more available in a basic soil.

pH - More Science!

pH is a measurement of the acidity or alkalinity of a soil. In the simplest of terms pH is the amount of willingness a soil has to donate or receive hydrogen ions (H+). A solution or soil that is a donator of H+ is acidic and those that receive are alkaline, or basic. The more H+ ions that are donated and received indicate the strength of the acid or base.

pH is measured on a scale from 1-14, where 1 is extremely acidic and 14 is extremely basic. On this scale 7 the pH of pure water, is neutral. pH is measured on a logarithmic scale where each change of 1 on the pH scale is 10 times more or less able to donate hydrogen ions than the previous score. For instance, a pH of 6, one less than pH neutral 7 is 10x more acidic, and a pH of 5 is 10x more acidic than pH 6, and 100x more acidic than pH 7. 

At different pH levels, elements are available to plants in different amounts, which can be seen by this picture; 





Soil requirement 3 - Soil Particles, Water and Air


Now, back to our professors story! I promised I'd get here!

Apart from being an interesting metaphor for life the professor's example provides an insight into soil structure! Just as in his jar, filled with particles of different sizes, we can create soils of different particle sizes to help or hinder us in our containerised gardens. This goes directly to our third soil need, the need for air.

If we fill our containers with large particles, such as the professor's golf balls we create a growing media with tonnes of room for air. Every time we put a smaller particle in, we remove some of the space that air can occupy, and fill it with some other sort of media, which can either be beneficial, neutral or harmful.

Too much large pockets of air however can also create a problem. If we planted our plants into golf balls, we would have a large supply of air for our plant's roots, as well as good anchorage, however golf balls do not have a particularly strong ability to hold water and nutrients. As golf balls are non-absorbent there is nowhere for water to be held, except in the places between where the golf balls touch each other, as a thin film that exists between particles.  

Obviously, planting in golf balls is probably not something any of us would consider, but more realistic growing media, such as expanded clay pellets or gravel have similar properties, and will provide a very well aerated, but not particularly moisture retentive, environment for growth.

As a general rule, as particle size decreases, water retention increases, and air capacity decreases. So our goal then it to find a soil media that is both water retentive and also hold air.

To achieve this, we can either have particles that hold moisture within their core, and allow air between the particles; or we can have a mixture of large particles that hold water where they touch or within themselves, and allow for pockets of air to exist simultaneously.

In cases where too much water is present in the soil the plant roots literally suffocate and the plant drowns.

Perched Water Tables 


A problem we face, pretty much unique to container growing is that the more fine particles in a soil mixture, the more a water table begins to form in the base of the container. This water table, known as perched water, is an area of saturated soil mixture where plant roots cannot survive, because of  lack of air.

It is because of this that my plants that I planted in containers using garden soil as a youth failed so dramatically. The soil of the area where I grew up was heavy clay. Heavy clay is comprised of very, very small particles, and despite typically having high nutrient levels, in a container the perched water table is so high that there is little room for roots to grow, and little available air throughout the rest of the soil either, as very little space exists between particles even when not saturated with water.

So What is a Good Soil Mix Then?    

Over the last year I have taken an interest in the best types of soil to promote vigorous plant growth. In my search I was eventually ended up at the GardenWeb forums, where I came across the posts of a forum member called Tapla, or Al. He speaks in depth about much that I have talked of in this post, as well as a lot more, and he suggests using a soil mixture made up of three components; fine pine bark, perlite and peat moss.

The mixture called Tapla's 5-1-1 mix is seven parts in total; 5 parts pine bark, 1 part perlite and 1 part peat moss. For the majority of plants it is wise to add some dolomitic lime to the mix to increase the pH, and to introduce some magnesium into the soil. For plants that love acidic soils, such as blueberries, it is best to leave the lime out.

This mixture should be wet as you mix it, as the peat moss and pine bark can be quite hydrophobic before it is moistened.

Today I made up a big batch of 5-1-1 to pot two new blueberry plants that I purchased today, and to plant out some new Chilean Guava, I have arriving next week.






Monday, March 25, 2013

Growing Blueberries!



Along with figs, this year I am trying my hand at blueberries. I currently have seven varieties, six in containers.

Blueberries 

Blueberries can be a little trickier than some fruits to grow. They have specific soil and nutrition needs and for decent crops need to be cross pollinated. Blueberries are often advertised as self-fertile, however cross pollination with another blueberry of the same type will greatly increase both yield and berry size. Blueberries also require a number of chill hours in order to set fruit.

However it is important that you choose blueberry plants from the same type, as not all blueberry plants will cross-pollinate with each other.

Soil selection

Blueberries are quite particular in their soil needs. They enjoy an acidic soil with a pH between 4.5-6.

Blueberries over time have adapted to lower pH environments, which today means that they will suffer mineral deficiencies in higher pH soils. In particular blueberries will suffer from an iron deficiency as their ability to absorb iron decreases with higher pH. Iron deficiency in blueberries is marked by chloriotic (yellowing), leaves.

Blueberries also require a free draining soil, free from weed competition. Blueberry root systems are very shallow.

Nutritional Needs

Blueberries have a different root system to the majority of plants. Normally, plants will form roots, and then fine feeder hairs, to collect nutrients. Blueberries lack these fine hair-like roots, and instead, form a symbiotic relationship with mycorrhizal fungi.

Blueberries are somewhat different from other plants in their nitrogen needs. Nitrogen (N) is an essential element that promotes leafy growth in plants, and in most fertilisers exists in a nitrate form. In chemistry nitrates have a chemical composition of NO3. Blueberries, and some other acid loving plants, prefer to receive nitrogen in an ammonia form, which has a chemical composition of NH4. Because of this, it is important when choosing a fertiliser for blueberries that you select one with an ammonia based nitrogen source. Generally, this can be found in acid-loving fertiliser mixes.

Below is a picture on the difference in blueberry root development when fed with a nitrate (NO3) vs ammonia (NH4) based fertiliser. The source of this picture, and lots of additional fertilising information can be found in this paper.




Blueberry Types

Blueberries come in three common types, blueberries will cross-pollinate with other plants within the same type, although some studies have shown limited cross pollination with blueberries of another type, in particular Southern Highbush and Rabbiteye types. To be safe, plant at least two varieties of the same type together.

Highbush

Highbush blueberries are so named because of their taller stature, sometimes growing up to 3m tall. Highbush types have a high chilling hour requirement, needing at least 1000 hours under 2oC to satisfy their dormancy requirements. These plants are quite hardy and frost tolerant. Highbush types are also able to tolerate high summer temperatures, making them great for cooler Australian climates.

This year, I have planted two varieties of Highbush blueberries

Blue Rose




Denise




Edit, on 30 March I added two new Highbush blueberries to the collection; Brigitta an Blue Crop



Southern Highbush

Southern Highbush types have lower chill hour requirements than Highbush types, needing between 250-600 hours of chill. Southern Highbush types do not have the frost tolerance of Highbush types and must be protected in areas like Canberra. Southern Highbush types have a tolerance for heat.

In Australia Southern Highbush varieties account for up to 80% of total blueberry production, due to the extended growing season.

Growing Southern Highbush types in Canberra can be troublesome due to our cold winters. Blueberries are perennials, meaning they live for many years, and in cold areas will die back each spring as cold weather approaches, to re-grow in Spring. Blueberries in containers should be moved to a warmer location to over-winter, and Southern Blueberries in the ground need extra frost protection if they are to survive.

This year, I have three Southern Highbush varieties

Legacy



Sunshine Blue




Misty




Rabbiteye

Rabbiteye blueberries are so-called due to their appearance when ripening looking (unsurprisingly) like the eye of a rabbit when the berries are in their pink stage. Rabbiteye varieties often have larger fruits, with thinner skins. Rabbiteye varieties can grow as large as, or even larger than Highbush types. Rabbiteye varieties have the ability to far out-live other types, growing for as long as 20 years or more.

Rabbiteye blueberries are low-chill varieties and need between 450-600 chill hours. Rabbiteye blueberries flower before Highbush types, and the flowers are very susceptible to spring frosts, and containerised plants should be moved to warmer locations if frost is predicted in spring. In Canberra, as the saying goes, you aren't (relatively) safe from frosts until Melbourne cup day, although late frosts into November or even December can occur.

This year, I have two Rabbiteye varieties;

Powderblue





Brightwell




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