Showing posts with label soil. Show all posts
Showing posts with label soil. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 1, 2014

The Tomato Plant Container Size Experiment Part 1

So, around about October I begin to plant tomatoes out into their containers for the season. I usually plant the majority in the ground, but like to have container plants as well, as they often ripen quicker.

But then I am faced with the question, what size container should I use, and what happens if I use a smaller container?!

This year we find out.

Introducing the Tomato Plant Container Size Experiment

Last year I looked at what effect growing a range of different plants in different potting mediums would have on their overall growth and yield. The answer was surprising. There seemed to be little to no difference regardless of whether I used a special potting blend, Al "Tapla's" well-known 5-1-1 mix or straight off the shelf $2.50 potting mix. This flew in the face of everything I had read about soil properties and improved growth, and although by no means a conclusive experiment, it definitely was interesting to see such little difference.

This year I am going to look at how container size affects growth of tomato plants. The experiment will be simpler than last year, and will simply look at what happens to tomatoes as you decrease the container size.

Overview

I will be using three different container sizes for this experiment, and will have two tomato plants per container size, so we can see if there is wild differences in growth or yield even between plants in the same container size.

The containers I will be using are below, and from left to right are 13 liters, 23 liters and 42 liters.

By the time I has used all my soil medium, the containers were not quite full, and so I will estimate that the actual soil volume in each is somewhere between 9-11 liters, 18-21 liters and 36-39 liters respectively. 

From left to right 13L container, 23L container and 42L container (as marked on containers)
I chose a variety of tomatoes from the local hardware store, that were approximately uniform size and health. The punnet came with 8 plants, this experiment will look at 6 of those plants.

The tomatoes used in this experiment
More information, for those interested
I will simultaneously be growing other tomato plants in the ground, and in other containers which I may refer to, but these wont be used as a comparison for this experiment.

What sized container is actually recommended?

It is difficult to find a straight answer when searching for what size container to use to plant your tomatoes in, with some ranges between 10L as a minimum and up to 60L or more as being recommended. 

This site suggests 30L as a minimum stating;
I find the most important factor is volume of dirt. I use containers that hold 30 liters (7.3 US Gallons), and I find this is both the minimum but also an amount that usually works okay. More is obviously better, if possible.
This thread from GardenWeb seems to come to the consensus that 5 Gallon containers (18.9L) are sufficient, even for growing beefsteak tomatoes.

And this page from the North Carolina State University says that the range of container size is anywhere from 5 - 20 Gals (18.9L - 75L).

Why should we even care - just use a huge container!

Anybody that has planted a number of container fruits or vegetables knows that as container size increases, cost seems to exponentially go up. And the more you plant, the more you cop it.

With increased container size you need not only a more expensive container, but also more quality soil mix to fill it. As size increases so does the weight of the container, and a 60L container with soil and a plant (weighing up to 45kg itself) can be a nightmare to move around!

So the goal should be to find the very minimum container size that provides sufficient quality and quantity of yield to be worth the effort of growing. 

The soil mix used in this experiment

Despite finding in my last experiment that ordinary old potting mix performs just as well, old habits die hard.

The mix I used for this experiment is the same for all container sizes.

I started by rehyrdrating a block of coconut husk chips. I used the blocks sold at Bunnings, which go for about $12-13 and are far inferior to the chips I have used previously. They are much larger, and just seem less refined. I prefer the orchidmate brand, which can be found online.
The packet of the husk chips says that it expands to up 60L, but here it is after being wet, in a 62L container. I estimate it expands to a volume of about 30L or less.

Re-hydrated coconut husk chips
I split the husks in two even parts, and to each part added the following:

1 bag of orchid mix, which appears to be composted bark, of about 5-10mm grade.

Can be found at Masters hadware stores for about $8 per bag
1 bag el-cheapo potting mix

This is a $5 bag. Couldn't find a $2.50 bag anywhere!

2 large handfuls of organic tomato fertiliser, and 2 large handfuls of fig fertiliser, which is made up of super-phosphate, bonemeal and dolomitic lime.

Add fertiliser
Organic tomato fertiliser
Mix all together and we have our mix. It is a nice damp, loose and aerated mix that should allow for good root growth! Here is a quick vid, please excuse my shaky and unfocused camera-work!

Filled, transplanted and ready to go

After filling all my containers with my soil mix, I have transplanted my tomatoes and am ready to watch and record them grow! As the nights are still quite cool here in Canberra I will be lugging them in and out of the garage each night to protect them from any frosts.

All lined up nice and pretty!

So stay tuned. I feel I am lacking a really big container comparison, the 60L group, and I do have 2 more plants left over... so I might end up adding another two plants tomorrow !

Thursday, December 12, 2013

The Great Container Mix Experiment - First Update

Well, I intended to write before now with a two week update, however life catches you and sometimes puts aside things like blogs! So today I present to you week 1 and 7 of the Great Container Mix Experiment.

Summary So Far

Back on October 28 I transplanted all my plants into their respective mixes for my experiment. Three mixes were used. 

The first was my interpretation of Al 'Tapla's' 5-1-1 mix from the GardenWeb forums, made of pine bark fines, perlite and peat moss with added dolomitic lime (see here for original instructions). The second was plain potting mix and the third was a mixture made up of mainly coconut husk chips, but with other ingredients. All mixes had lime and some slow release fertiliser added. For a review see my previous posts on the topic.

Three types of plants were added; okra, banana chili and fatalii chilli peppers. 

All plants were roughly the same size on planting, except for the banana chillis where one plant was significantly smaller than the other two, and was planted into the coconut husk chip mix.

I measured their heights at week 1 after planting, and today seven weeks later. 

Throughout October and November there have been some very cold mornings in Canberra, and the okra in particular suffer. The Okra in the coconut husk mix dropped several leaves one morning and has not yet recovered, and this has seriously stunted its growth, since this event it has not grown at all, I am unsure why this plant was so badly affected, it may be due to the mix itself or the position of the plant, being the most exposed. 

Growth below is measured in cms and measured to the top of the tallest leaf on each respective plant.

Surprising results!

In week 7 after transplanting there have been some very surprising results.

Whilst most plants are thriving, the plants in the ordinary potting mix ($2.50 per bag from the local hardware store) are performing extremely well, and even outperforming the other mixes in some cases. 

Having a look at the percentage change in growth for each plant, shows little difference between the 5-1-1 mix and plain potting mix for the okra, whilst the plant in the coconut husk chip mix did not grow at all, actually losing some leaves due to cold.

The coconut husk chip mix greatly outperforms both 5-1-1 and plain potting mix for the Fatalii chilli peppers, with the 'coarse' 5-1-1 mix outperforming the plain potting mix.

The banana chilli show the most surprising results with plain potting mix outperforming both the 'coarse' 5-1-1 and the coconut husk mix by a significant margin, with the 5-1-1 fairing the worst.

Below is a chart showing the percentage change in cm growth for all plants in all mixes. Below this is a summary for each plant group.

Okra

For the okra plants, the plants in the 5-1-1 mix are performing the best, but only slightly better than plain potting mix. The okra in the coconut husk mix was affected by the cold morning temperatures more-so than the other two mixes dropping several leaves after a particularly cold morning, down to 2o C. 

The Okra plant in the fine 5-1-1 mix, although putting on the most growth also almost uprooted itself, blowing over after a windy day, and required staking. This problem has not occurred for the other plants. A week after staking, its growth does not seem to have been disturbed. 

Fatalii Chilli

The fatalii chilli have not been hurt by the cold and have grown steadily. In this instance the peppers in the coconut husk mix slightly outperform the other two mixes, with the plain potting mix fairing the poorest on total percentage growth, but not by much. 

Banana Chili

The smaller banana chilli placed into the coconut husk chip mix has put on a bit of size, and percentage wise has outperformed the 5-1-1, and this plant seems more determined to fruit. The banana chilli in the plain potting mix is performing admirably, eclipsing both the other mixes by a long margin.


Below are large photos of each plant at weeks 1 and then 7 for comparison.

Week 1- 04/11/2013

Okra

' Fine' 5-1-1 
Plain Potting Mix
Coconut Husk Chips

Fatalii Chilli 

'Coarse' 5-1-1
Plain Potting Mix
Coconut Husk Chips

Banana Chilli

'Coarse' 5-1-1
Plain Potting Mix
Coconut Husk Chips

Week 7 - 12/12/13

Okra

'Fine' 5-1-1
Plain Potting Mix
Coconut Husk Chips

Fatalii Chilli

'Coarse' 5-1-1
Plain Potting Mix
Coconut Husk Chips

Banana Chilli 

'Coarse' 5-1-1 Mix
Plain Potting Mix
Coconut Husk Chips

Sunday, August 4, 2013

Introducing the Great Container Mix Experiment!

Im back! With the beginning of August we begin our countdown to Spring, although you wouldn't be the first to wonder whether or not Spring had already arrived! Across our suburbs cherries and other fruits are blossoming, and a few of my potted plants are showing the first signs of life!

I will leave our unseasonable warmth for another post, for all winter I have been thinking upon more and more  upon another pressing issue... Soil mixes.

Much of last year, I spent my time searching for the best soil medium that would grow a wide range of plants, and I could use as a reliable medium that would both retain a good amount of moisture, but also would also be porous enough to allow the plants roots access to plenty of air.

As can be read in my previous post on soils, the role of the soil medium is simply to anchor the plant, provide dissolved nutrients and water, and to provide air.

I began my search on the GardenWeb forums, and pretty soon into the adventure found that a forum member ‘Tapla’ was renowned for having two soil mixes that met all these properties. One of these mixes his ‘5-1-1’ mix was made up of three ingredients; partially composted pine bark fines, perlite and peat moss.  

After finding suitable pine bark fines, I quickly potted up a number of plants including fig trees, blueberries, bay tree, dwarf lemon tree and a dwarf peach. 

All potted in Tapla's 5-1-1
I was very excited and expected a tonne of new growth. The season however by this stage was nearly over, having potted everything up in the beginning of February, the final month of summer.

Besides one or two blueberry bushes, I saw very little growth from any of my plants after planting in the mix, despite having a month of summer remaining. I have various possible theories why, in particular some very hot days which might have stressed the plants. I have a suspicion that my figs in particular were heat stressed, because when the heat finally dissipated the figs started to put on some new leaf growth.

May 2013 - Where's my growth!?
Feb 2013


I had a couple of other issues with the mix, on most days I would water it in the morning, and come home to find plants wilting- despite the soil being obviously damp. A quick drink and plants perked up again. The biggest issue however came when I had some issues with my blueberries suffering a nutrient deficiency and beginning to show signs of leaf chloriosis.

Chloriotic Blueberry Leaves due pH

Blueberries are picky plants in their pH requirements, and despite the 5-1-1 mix being inherently acidic the water I was using was too alkaline, and was slowly killing my plants. I fixed this by adding small amounts of sulphuric acid to the watering can before watering, but in the process also added more soil mix to the plants.

It was during this process that I noticed that the soil mix was absolutely saturated despite not having been watered at all that day. The mix had collapsed to the point of a store bought mix, but seemed to be holding excess water, not the porous aerating soil I hoped for. I amended the mix, adding larger pine bark pieces, and the plants seem to be doing ok, although they are all now dormant.

Unhappy, I decided to follow in the path another forum user had suggested, coconut husk chips (CHCs). CHCs are the fibrous part of the coconut that have been cut into fairly uniform square sizes. The chips come in a compressed block that supposedly expands to make up to about 60L when hydrated. Coconut husk chips have some beneficial properties to pine bark, such as hydrating from a dry state easily, where pine bark fines tend to become hydrophobic once dry.  CHCs also held a good amount of air and water.

Using CHCs I have potted up most of my plants, and now only a few plants remain in the original 5-1-1 mix I made in February, despite having not had a chance to see if it is effective or not.

My current mix- Primarily coconut husk chips, with perlite and pine bark

 Still, doubts remain. Did I throw the 5-1-1 aside too quickly, and judge it too harshly? If I had potted in Spring would there have been a difference? Will the CHCs even perform well (everything has been potted whilst dormant).

The CHCs certainly look good when mixing, and look like they will perform an excellent job, but even this, perhaps, is unnecessary.

And so, beginning in the Spring of 2013 I intend to test all of this with an experiment.

The Great Container Mix Experiment


Introducing now the great soil mix experiment, where I will attempt to determine for myself once and for all the best mix to put my potted vegies and fruit trees into! Is it really worth all that effort to source fancy ingredients when a $5 bag of potting mix from Bunnings will do the same thing?!

There is only one hopefully, mostly scientific way to determine this. Grow a number of the same plants in different soil mixes and see how they perform under the same conditions. And to be super sure, I will grow a couple of different types of plants side by side.

I am going to grow four types of plants each in three different soil mixes and measure the differences in growth across the season. I am going to record all growth against a control group of plants using straight potting mix from Bunnings. In total, I will have three different mixes to test;
·         Pure potting mix
·         Tapla’s 5-1-1 mix (two versions)
·         My current experimental mix which is made up primarily of CHCs but also has pine bark, perlite, compost           and manure    
  
For this experiment I have decided to use four different types of plant so that my results are more than just the result of a particular type of plant preferring a particular mix. The plants I will choose for this are;
·         Grape tomato, which does not require staking
·         Fatalli Chilli
·        Basil (or possibly egglant)
·        Banana Chilli 

These plants have been chosen for their size and suitability for pots, and also based upon what I use a lot in cooking.

Plants will be grown in two different sized pots. Half will be in smaller 8L pots and the other half in larger 30(ish)L pots. All seeds will be germinated directly in the mix so that transplant shock is not a concern. 3 seeds will be planted in each pot and the most healthy seedling kept.

Plant growth will be measured in a number of ways, including germination time, height and apparent vigour. Fruit count and quality will also be recorded at intervals. Photos will, of course, be provided at weekly intervals.

I am quite excited to get this on the road, and have already mixed up the 5-1-1 mix! Read more in my other post!

Saturday, March 30, 2013

Soils Aint Soils


Growing plants can be quite technical if we wish to make it so. There is chemistry, physics and biology to consider if you want to create the absolute best growing environment for your plants. Luckily for us, it isn't super necessary to consider all of these technical details in order to grow the majority of plants successfully.

Having said this, sometimes a small amount of knowledge can go a very long way. Perhaps nowhere is an  understanding of some basic principals likely to pay off as much as in container growing culture.

But first, a story. This has been circulating the internet for years, and I promise there is a point, although I may take a little while to get there!


A professor stood before his philosophy class and had some items in front of him. When the class began, he wordlessly picked up a very large and empty mayonnaise jar and proceeded to fill it with golf balls. He then asked the students if the jar was full. 

They agreed that it was.

The professor then picked up a box of pebbles and poured them into the jar. He shook the jar lightly. The pebbles rolled into the open areas between the golf balls. He then asked the students again if the jar was full. 

They agreed it was.The professor next picked up a box of sand and poured it into the jar. Of course, the sand filled up everything else. He asked once more if the jar was full. 

The students responded with a unanimous ‘yes.’

The professor then produced two Beers from under the table and poured the entire contents into the jar effectively filling the empty space between the sand.The students laughed..

‘Now,’ said the professor as the laughter subsided, ‘I want you to recognize that this jar represents your life. The golf balls are the important things—your family, your children, your health, your friends and your favourite passions—and if everything else was lost and only they remained, your life would still be full. 

The pebbles are the other things that matter like your job, your house and your car.. The sand is everything else—the small stuff.

‘If you put the sand into the jar first,’ he continued, ‘there is no room for the pebbles or the golf balls. 

The same goes for life.

If you spend all your time and energy on the small stuff you will never have room for the things that are important to you.

Pay attention to the things that are critical to your happiness.

Spend time with your children. Spend time with your parents. Visit with grandparents. Take your spouse out to dinner.There will always be time to clean the house and mow the lawn.

Take care of the golf balls first—the things that really matter. Set your priorities. The rest is just sand.

One of the students raised her hand and inquired what the Beer represented. The professor smiled and said, ‘I’m glad you asked.’ The Beer just shows you that no matter how full your life may seem, there’s always room for a couple of Beers with a friend."

As great as this story is for representing life, for me at least, it also represents some interesting considerations when choosing your soils for containerised plants. We will come back to this later.

The Role of Soil Media in Container Gardening


Back when I was young and first started growing plants in my backyard, I noticed that all the plants I planted in the ground seemed to do ok, whereas everything I planted into containers tended to be riding a downwards slope to death, rarely living for more than a few months. The problem was, I was using soil straight from the ground in my pots. But why is this so bad?

The answer comes by asking the question, what exactly is the role that soil plays in plant growth?

To the uninitiated the answer may surprise. The media in which a plant grows need only serve three functions;
1. As an anchor to support the plant
2. As a media to access water and nutrients
3. As a media to access air

To this end, the actual form that soil media takes is not so important as fulfilling these three needs. Nowhere is this point more evident than in hydroponics where plants can be grown entirely submerged in water, as in a deep-water culture system, or in aeroponics where a plant is grown with its roots suspended in air, being misted or sprayed, at intervals, with a nutrient solution. In both of these cases the plant itself is supported by the hydroponic systems or inert media such as clay pellets. Air is bubbled through a nutrient solution in a deep-water culture system, and in aeroponics air is available at most times.

It is important to caveat these next points with the following; when growing in the ground, different rules apply to growing in containers. Although the three basic needs still apply, in the ground there are entire ecosystems of bacteria, fungi and other organisms that work in symbiotic and complimentary fashion with the soil. For instance, earthworms and other organisms make tunnels, introducing air into the system, whilst other organisms work to make particular nutrients available, or destroy toxins.

Another key point for consideration is drainage, however this will be covered in depth later.

Of the three needs that plants have of soil media the first is very easy to accomplish. Plants can be anchored in almost anything. You can dig up soil from the garden, or plant them in gravel or potting mix or even shards of glass. The second need is slightly more difficult.

On Nutrient Uptake - Warning Chemistry Ahead!


Plants require a host of nutrients in the form of minerals and elements to survive, and these nutrients are only available to the plant when in an aqueous (dissolved in water) solution. Essential nutrients are not available in their elemental form, and instead are provided as ions which are positive or negatively charged portions of a compound. For instance, the chemical  formula for table salt is NaCl, comprised of sodium (Na) and Chlorine (Cl). When salt is dissolved in water it separates into its positive sodium ions (Na+) and negatively charged chlorine ions (Cl-).

For almost all plant nutrient needs, elements can be provided by various different compounds. For instance, in my post on blueberries I discussed how nitrogen could be provided in either a nitrate (NO3) form, or an ammonia form (NH4). For nitrates, when dissolved in water for instance calcium nitrate Ca(NO3)2 separates into Ca+ and NO3- ions, and potassium nitrate (KNO3) separates into its potassium (K+) and nitrate (NO3-) ions. Nitrogen in its ammonia form, can be provided similarly by compounds such as ammonium nitrate which provides nitrogen in both ammonium (NH4) and nitrate (NO3) forms.

Ions in solution are transported from the roots into the plants through a process called osmosis, where due to a chemical pressure, which causes ions to move from the soil into the plants roots, and then up into its tissues.

Osmosis provides an upwards pressure on nutrients and water into the plant, but at the same time there exists negative downward pressure in the soil keeping water and its dissolved nutrients from moving into the plant. These negative pressures include gravity and the level of undissolved compounds in the soil.

Because of this, if too many soluble undissolved (or dissolved but less so) compounds exist in the soil media, the plant can literally have nutrients and water drawn out of its cells, and at the very least have any water and nutrient made totally unavailable, rendering the media useless. In these cases plants die of thirst and starvation, despite totally being surrounded by food.

Another interesting phenomena exists where the presence of one ionic compound can cause another to be locked out, and less available to the plant.

Finally, pH is an important soil attribute that effects the availability of nutrients, with some ions being more available in a acidic soil, and others being more available in a basic soil.

pH - More Science!

pH is a measurement of the acidity or alkalinity of a soil. In the simplest of terms pH is the amount of willingness a soil has to donate or receive hydrogen ions (H+). A solution or soil that is a donator of H+ is acidic and those that receive are alkaline, or basic. The more H+ ions that are donated and received indicate the strength of the acid or base.

pH is measured on a scale from 1-14, where 1 is extremely acidic and 14 is extremely basic. On this scale 7 the pH of pure water, is neutral. pH is measured on a logarithmic scale where each change of 1 on the pH scale is 10 times more or less able to donate hydrogen ions than the previous score. For instance, a pH of 6, one less than pH neutral 7 is 10x more acidic, and a pH of 5 is 10x more acidic than pH 6, and 100x more acidic than pH 7. 

At different pH levels, elements are available to plants in different amounts, which can be seen by this picture; 





Soil requirement 3 - Soil Particles, Water and Air


Now, back to our professors story! I promised I'd get here!

Apart from being an interesting metaphor for life the professor's example provides an insight into soil structure! Just as in his jar, filled with particles of different sizes, we can create soils of different particle sizes to help or hinder us in our containerised gardens. This goes directly to our third soil need, the need for air.

If we fill our containers with large particles, such as the professor's golf balls we create a growing media with tonnes of room for air. Every time we put a smaller particle in, we remove some of the space that air can occupy, and fill it with some other sort of media, which can either be beneficial, neutral or harmful.

Too much large pockets of air however can also create a problem. If we planted our plants into golf balls, we would have a large supply of air for our plant's roots, as well as good anchorage, however golf balls do not have a particularly strong ability to hold water and nutrients. As golf balls are non-absorbent there is nowhere for water to be held, except in the places between where the golf balls touch each other, as a thin film that exists between particles.  

Obviously, planting in golf balls is probably not something any of us would consider, but more realistic growing media, such as expanded clay pellets or gravel have similar properties, and will provide a very well aerated, but not particularly moisture retentive, environment for growth.

As a general rule, as particle size decreases, water retention increases, and air capacity decreases. So our goal then it to find a soil media that is both water retentive and also hold air.

To achieve this, we can either have particles that hold moisture within their core, and allow air between the particles; or we can have a mixture of large particles that hold water where they touch or within themselves, and allow for pockets of air to exist simultaneously.

In cases where too much water is present in the soil the plant roots literally suffocate and the plant drowns.

Perched Water Tables 


A problem we face, pretty much unique to container growing is that the more fine particles in a soil mixture, the more a water table begins to form in the base of the container. This water table, known as perched water, is an area of saturated soil mixture where plant roots cannot survive, because of  lack of air.

It is because of this that my plants that I planted in containers using garden soil as a youth failed so dramatically. The soil of the area where I grew up was heavy clay. Heavy clay is comprised of very, very small particles, and despite typically having high nutrient levels, in a container the perched water table is so high that there is little room for roots to grow, and little available air throughout the rest of the soil either, as very little space exists between particles even when not saturated with water.

So What is a Good Soil Mix Then?    

Over the last year I have taken an interest in the best types of soil to promote vigorous plant growth. In my search I was eventually ended up at the GardenWeb forums, where I came across the posts of a forum member called Tapla, or Al. He speaks in depth about much that I have talked of in this post, as well as a lot more, and he suggests using a soil mixture made up of three components; fine pine bark, perlite and peat moss.

The mixture called Tapla's 5-1-1 mix is seven parts in total; 5 parts pine bark, 1 part perlite and 1 part peat moss. For the majority of plants it is wise to add some dolomitic lime to the mix to increase the pH, and to introduce some magnesium into the soil. For plants that love acidic soils, such as blueberries, it is best to leave the lime out.

This mixture should be wet as you mix it, as the peat moss and pine bark can be quite hydrophobic before it is moistened.

Today I made up a big batch of 5-1-1 to pot two new blueberry plants that I purchased today, and to plant out some new Chilean Guava, I have arriving next week.






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